How to Make an 18th Century Corset
(II) Half-boned authentic




 

This is for both solution (2.2.1) and (3.), with the difference being in the authenticity of the material used.

As has been said before, make one row of stitching for each bone, then place the bone - cut to shape if necessary - next to the stitching and stitch along the other edge of the bone, thus holding it in place. Do that with all bones and see to it that they end about 0.5 cm from the fabric edge. Make the stitches strong enough to last: relatively small basting stitches with the occasional backstitch in between.

You now have two options: Make up the corset and top fabric separately, or make up each panel including all layers, then combine them. I recommend the latter, which makes it easier to make adjustments later if your figure changes or if the corset pattern later proves to be not 100% suited to your figure. The former looks a lot neater if you place the layers left-on-left. Some patterns, however, require that the top fabric have a different cut.

Now cut out the top fabric, leaving a generous allowance on all sides which you can cut away as soon as the top fabric is firmly anchored on the foundation by basting along the edges. After that would be a good idea to make the lacing holes - revert back to the "main" stays page for those. Then you can do a last fitting.

If you make up everything separately, place the cut-outs of top fabric on top of the boned foundation, taking care not to stretch it. Hold it in place with basting stitches. Sew together the panels and hold down the seam allowance e.g. with whip stitch. If you've decided to use lining, now is the time to cut it with a generous allowance on all sides and to make it up - always separate from the top - and place it onto the inner side of the corset, left on left, as smoothly as possible. Baste the lining onto the outer layers.

Cut the tabs with rounded ends, including the tab on the front panel where the shoulder strap will attach. Finish up by binding the edges of the combo and making holes for lacing, securing them with buttonhole stitch. Remember to attach the shoulder straps before binding the upper egde - instructions back on the main page.

If you've decided to make up the top fabric separately, treat it just like the lining above.

And now: Wearing it!

 

 

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