Walking Dress Skirt 1899 The skirt, of which we give the pattern with this Part, is a specially simple one, suitable for cloth, serge, or tweed. It is cut a moderate length for walking and every-day wear; it consists of front, side, and back gores, making, when complete, five pieces in the finished skirt. The paper pattern consists of three pieces, half the front, side and back. The whole front is cut in one piece without seam, therefore the centre of front, that is, the straight side of pattern, must be placed to a fold of material. In diagram No.67 we show the way of placing pattern on folded material where there is a right and wrong way, such as fancy material, face cloth, or velveteen. A saving of material may be made if it is quite a plain material that will turn up and down, as the side gore may be fitted in with the front (see diagram No.68). The back requires a small corner join, but it will not show under the pleats if it is neatly joined and pressed. Silk, sateen, Nearsilk, or silkette are all suitable materials for the lining; it should be cut to the same pattern as material. Place the lining on the table, then the material face upwards on the lining; smooth it over with the hands, being careful not to stretch the material. Pin it here and there, then tack it. When all the pieces of material and lining are tacked together, place the edges of seams together. Always commence to join the seams from the waist downwards. Tack them first, then machine-stitch them; remove the tacking threads, open the seams, and press them with a hot iron. All alterations in length must be made at the foot. For the placket-hole, leave a piece unsewn 10 inches in length at the top of back seam, turn in the front edge of unjoined part about 1 1/2 inch deep; either hem this down, or cover the edge with a piece of Prussian binding, hemmed at one edge to the turnover part, and at the other to the inside of skirt. Be very careful that this part lies quite evenly. Make a wrap on the left side from a piece of material 4 inches wide and about 12 inches long; run this on the side edge of placket-hole. fold the lower end in and tack it; fold the strip over in the centre lengthwise, and hem it down on the inside. To prevent the placket-hole splitting down, it should be firmly sewn on the inside at the top of the seam. Arrange the fulness at the back in one pleat each side, turning towards the centre. Mark the centre of front of skirt with a tacking thread. For the webbing-band, cut it 2 inches longer than the size of waist, to form a wrap. Two hooks are sewn to the right-hand end, and one in the centre of band 2 inches further in. Eyes are sewn in the other end to correspond. Mark the centre of front with a line of herringbone stitches, worked with white cotton. Pin the centre of edge of skirt to the mark in centre of waistband on the right side; ease the edge of skirt into the band. Now put on the skirt, and see that it sets well round the waist and over the hips, being careful that it does not drag or form a crease across the front. Also do not raise it too much in centre of front, or it will make it stand away from the foot and give it a short appearance. Sew on the band. When this is done, the length must be arranged. Turn up the material all round to the correct length, remembering that skirts showing the feet are not worn, even for walking. Turn up the edge on the inside and pin it. Cut off the edge evenly to within 1 1/2 to 2 inches, slip-stitch the turned-up edge lightly to the lining. Cut the facing 7 inches wide, join the ends, open and press the seams, turn in the lower edge, pin to the inside of skirt, and hem about 1/2 inch above the edge. Turn in the upper edge, and hem to lining, being careful not to take the stitches through. Finish the foot with a fold of velveteen skirt binding, and put a pinked-out frill of silk inside the foot. This is a little extravagance one never regrets, as it makes such a nice finish to a skirt. The pleats at the back may be connected with two patent hooks and eyes, set well under the edge of pleat so that they do not show when fastened. Sew a loop of Prussian binding to the inside of each side of webbing-band to hang it up by, as skirts should always be hung up evenly from each side. A pocket may be set in at the back seam under pleats, but it is very liable to spoil the hang of the skirt. MATERIALS REQUIRED: 3 3/4 yards of material that will not turn up or down, or 3 1/4 yards if it will turn, 5 yards sateen or Nearsilk for lining, or 7 yards of silk, 2 yards silk for frill, 4 yards velveteen binding, 1 yard webbing. ------ brought to you by La Couturière Parisienne (webmistress @marquise.de) http://www.marquise.de and given as a Pattern Exchange item by Valerie.