s1913_8 files: leibchenXXV_1.gif leibchenXXV_2.gif leibchenXXV_uebs.gif rockXXVI_1.gif rockXXVI_2.gif rockXXVI_3.gif rockXXVI_uebs.gif *********************** Dress with draped skirt, 1913 *********************** blouse: 116 front lining 117 back lining 118 upper bib (half) 119 lower bib (half) 120 waistcoat 121 & 121a main part 122 collar 123 cuff skirt: A front of lining (half) B back of lining C right part of top fabric D left part of top fabric Fabric: 4.5 m of lime green Eolinenne (110 wide), 40 cm white crêpe de chine, 40 cm very fine tulle. Red buttons on the waistcoat, green ones on the dress. Stick #121 and #121a together down the length of the sleeve before cutting. The centre back edge of that combined part is on the straight of grain. The sleeveless lining closes in back. Cover its front with the upper bib, made of white chiffon, and below that a pleated part of tulle for which #119 gives the basic shape. Cover the chiffon bib with fine white tulle which you attach smoothly at the lower edge and gather to the measurement of the bib at the upper edge. Cut away the lining below the bib. Close the combined side and sleeve seam of 121/121a. In front, the edges overlap right over left. Cover front neckline with a wide facing. Sew on waistcoat from points 16 to 22 to 18. Lastly, set the white collar onto the neck of the top fabric in back and onto the waistcoat in front. The skirt is made of one front and two side parts. The sides are rounded at the bottom, the seams open for 16 cm from the bottom up. The hem is 8 cm wide and weighted down with lead tape. Leave a slit of 32 cm at the top of the centre back seam. The top fabric skirt consists of two different side parts. Pin the centre front and centre back of part C onto the waistband of the lining skirt, then gather the top edge to the appropriate width. Make three pleats facing backwards at the . and x marks with the numbers 1, 2, 3. Stitch the pleats down for 15 cm downwards, right next to the pleat edge. Baste part C onto the lining between *c and *b, going across the pleats, so that the top bags out. Turn a hem and turn the slit edge to the inside in a long triangle. The tip of the triangle is decorated with a green piece of trim. The curved edge of D is turned like a hem and pleated along the dotted lines (. and x marks), then set onto C between *a and *b (along dotted line in C). Make box pleat in left edge of D and set buttons onto it which also fiix D on C and on the lining. Cut slit from right edge to *c and make three pleats in the lower part. Set right edge od D under left edge of C, *c marks meeting. Lightly fix top fabric on lining here and there, and weigh down with lead buttons. ------ Made for Manuela as part of the Pattern Exchange ------ brought to you by La Couturière Parisienne (webmistress @marquise.de) http://www.marquise.de Copyright 2001 by A. Bender reproduction of any kind (including dress creation) forbidden, except for private, non-profit and educational purposes or with special permission.