Lace



This overview is by no means complete, but depends on the lace that I have either myself or in books. I'd be grateful for donations of pictures.

Point de France

French needle lace, 18th century
Point de France was a French adaptation of Venetian needlepoint lace. The pattern was much smaller, but the technique and patterns very similar. Point de France can be seen most frequently during the earlier 18th century. Point de France is not repetitive, i.e. even in a piece of 50 cm you will hardly find a repetition of the pattern.
detail view

Flandre

Flemish bobbin lace, 18th century
This is a relatively coarse Flemish lace, called "peasant lace". It tries to emulate needle lace, but in contrast at least to Venetian and French needlepoint lace, it is absolutely flat, with "woven" ribbons making up the body. For the re-enacor, tt could pass as a substitute for gros point, a large-patterned Venetian needle lace. There's no repetition within 50 cm. This specimen has been dyed with saffron to suit a 19th century fashion.
detail view

 

Mechlin

A bobbin lace from the Belgian town of Mechelen, also known as Malines. The body is made up of a hexagonal net into which floral motifs are worked. They are largest along the scalloped edge and highly repetitive with the rapport being about 2 cm. The pattern suggests mid-to-late 19th century.
detail view

Mechlin 2

Another example of this very fine net-ground bobbin lace. Not as repetitive as the previous one - what you see is one pattern unit, about 3 cm wide. The pattern of Mechlin lace is emphasized by an outline of thicker thread. This particular pattern could pass for 18th century.
detail view

 

Mechlin 3

Again, one unit of the pattern, about 10 cm wide. This one is unusual in that it is not simply running along, but also symmetric within each unit. This style of fine net-ground lace was popular from the mid 18th century on. The examples here are probably from the second half of the 19th century, but this pattern here could serve for 18th century costume as well.
detail view

Valenciennes

A net-ground bobbin lace, therefore similar to Mechlin and Brussels lace. It is a bit firmer, less translucent:There is a tendency towards ribbon-like pattern pieces. The net has a different shape, too (rectangular). No outlining with thicker thread. Valenciennes was the most popular lace during the second half of the 18th century.
detail view

 

Application d'Angleterre

The pattern is done in bobbin lace, then applied to a readymade net ground. In contrast to all-bobbin lace it has one "good" and one back side as the pattern parts sit on the net ground instead of being part of it. The dots (point d'esprit) are just threaded through, as in tulle embroidery. This was a cheaper substitute for net-ground bobbin lace used in the late 19th century.
detail view

Reticella

is one of the oldest kinds of lace, developed in the 16th century out of drawnwork where the gaps were filled with star and bow patterns. Over time, more and more threads of the base fabric were removed. When the patterns became completely independent of base fabric, Reticella became punto in aria ("in air") and the ancestor of needle lace. This item is a design from a late 16th century pattern book.

       

Honiton

The best known English (bobbin) lace, of the net ground variety. It was developed during the mid 19th century. Roses and shamrocks are typical; there is not much repetition.

Imitated Torchon

A French non-net bobbin lace that was very popular at the end of the 19th century. Very repetitive.

       

Point de Venise

The classic needle lace from Venice. Like so many needle laces, it has a noticeable relief worked over thicker threads. Its height was in the late 17th century. Point de Venise is not repetitive.

Cluny

A French non-net bobbin lace, worked in silk ("blonde"). Very repetitive.

       

Bruge

A bobbin lace in imitation of needle lace patterns, from Brugge in Belgium. Repetitive, but not very.

Argentella

Also known as Argentan after a town near Alenšon (France) which is even better known for lace. Argentan is somewhat similar to Alenšon, but on a different ground.

 

 

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